Remove the entire control deck to gain access to the back (where the wires are coming out). If the control deck is still "wobbly" it is likely that the glue has failed on the butt joints. There are 4 bolts (with convenient "wheels" that you can grab to twist on/off) located inside of the coin door. If your control deck is moving around on your machine:įirst, check the obvious. These are probably much less likely to fail than the SCR, however. The Toshiba TLP596G photo relay (PVT412PBF - the lead-free version of PVT412 - appears to be a pin-compatible replacement) is also used here. Other active components that may be worth checking in the region of the top spots are the N13T1 PUT (NTE6402 sub) or 2SC2320 NPN transistor (NTE85 sub). The LECIP M-1H ballast is the correct replacement part for this. If the SSR has been replaced, but the neons do not light, assuming the neons aren't broken, the transformer is the next logical part to check. The solid state relay is also used for the top neons, but has much simpler control circuitry (directly controlled from the 74F04 hex inverter). These can be replaced with a new aftermarket solid state relay as listed above to make the lights operate properly again. If you have top spot lights that are stuck on regardless of the test menu setting, then you may have bad solid state relays on the lights control board above the top speakers.
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